In 1973, Issey Miyake is one of the first Japanese designers to present their collections on European podiums, almost ten years before Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons…
Born in 1938 in Hiroshima, Issey Miyake is studying graphic design at Tama Art University, then moved to Paris in 1964 where he worked for Guy Laroche and Hubert de Givenchy . Before returning to Tokyo to start his own business, Miyake Design Studio, he made a detour to New York and worked for Geoffrey Beene.
Each of his experiences influenced his work as a fashion designer: Beene by its subtle forms, Laroche and Givenchy by their Parisian cutting direction and structure.
Yet Miyake collections offer something entirely new. He was the first to marry the Japanese style to that of the West: in addition to his interest in textures and dyeing of traditional Japanese fabrics (such as farmers blouses), it also takes up certain notions clothing Japanese, including the universal size.
These ideas fit well with his desire to create a practical and democratic way, a universality who will speak later through his choice of models: a 1976 show, he uses only black girls and to octogenarians for another presentation.
The creations of Issey Miyake are immediately applauded far beyond the circles of fashion and in 1986 he began a collaboration with photographer Irving Penn, whose impressive work perfectly reflects the ideas of Miyake.
Besides his eponymous label (designed by Naoki Takizawa since 1999), Issey Miyake also produces a line of clothing entirely pleated, Pleats Please and a collection (designed with his assistant Dai Fujiwara) to which he devotes all his time, A- POC (A Piece Of Cloth).
In this new original technique of construction of clothes, the wire is inserted into a knitting machine which delivers a 3D fabric tube with demarcation lines which, once cut, can create a complete wardrobe of clothes more simple socks.
The first presentation of A-POC is held in October 1998 on the Parisian catwalks, who see 23 models scroll connected by a single piece of fabric. The secret of this technique is closely guarded the Miyake design studio.
Lately, Issey Miyake and his compatriot Tadao Ando, the famous architect, have partnered to offer Tokyo a place devoted exclusively to the design that was lacking in the megalopolis of the world, where all the stylistic eccentricities.
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